boards in adjacent courses. Seal the ends and fit the siding so it is in close contact with adjacent pieces. Loose joints allow water to get behind the siding, which can cause paint deterioration around the joints and lead to decay at the ends of the boards and inside the wall. A tight, waterproof joint can be made by placing a small bead of caulking compound or putty along the end of each board after it is installed, then pressing the next board into the compound and removing the excess compound. Joints at window or door trim can be made the same way. Bevel and drop siding should be face-nailed to structural sheathing (plywood, OSB or lumber) or to the wall studs. The size of the nail required depends on the thickness of the siding and the type of sheathing used. A good way to minimize cracking from dimensional change is to drive nails through the siding just above the lap so that they miss the top edge of the piece of siding beneath (see Figure 111). Vertical Application Lumber siding that can be applied vertically includes: plain matched boards; patterned matched boards; square-edge boards covered at the joints with a batten strip; or square-edge boards spaced apart and covered with another board. Vertical siding is usually 14.3 mm (9⁄16 in.) thick. Boards should not be wider than 286 mm (12 in. nominal). Vertical boards may be fastened to 14.3 mm (9⁄16 in.) lumber sheathing, 12.5 mm (1⁄2 in.) plywood or 12.5 mm (1⁄2 in.) OSB or waferboard, or to horizontal furring strips. The furring (strapping) should be at least 19 × 64 mm (1 × 3 in. nominal) lumber where the framing is spaced not more than 400 mm (16 in.) on centre or 19 × 89 mm (1 × 4 in. nominal) lumber where the framing is spaced not more than 600 mm (24 in.) on centre. Butt joints in lumber siding should be cut at 45 degrees (mitred) and overlapped to prevent the entry of water into the joint. When the spaced (board-on-board) method is used (Figure 109), the boards next to the wall are normally wider than the cover boards and are fastened with one row of nails near the centre of each board. The cover board is then applied so that it laps the edges of the underlying boards at least 25 mm (1 in.). Fasten the cover boards with one row of nails in the centre. Use a vertical furring behind so that nailing does not split the cover board. This arrangement allows all the boards to adjust to changing moisture without splitting. The board-and-batten method uses square-edge boards that are ordinarily 184 mm (8 in. nominal) or less in width. The boards are applied with the edges at least 6 mm (1⁄4 in.) apart and fastened with one row of nails near the centre of each board. A batten is used that laps the edges at least 12 mm (1⁄2 in.). The batten is fastened with one row of nails driven in the joint between the two boards. This allows all boards to adjust to changing moisture without splitting. Since the batten also serves to prevent the board edges from curling outward, the nailing should be secure and closely spaced. Plywood Panels Plywood sheets acceptable for use as a cladding material are made with a plain or grooved surface and are usually applied vertically. The joints may be V-grooved or flush or may be covered with battens. Some products have a resin-impregnated paper laminated to the face that provides a smooth, moisture-resistant surface that resists checking or splitting after painting or staining. If a rainscreen is not required, plywood cladding may be applied directly over the sheathing membrane on unsheathed wall framing. The minimum thickness used is 6 mm (1⁄4 in.) for stud spacing of 400 mm (16 in.) on centre and 8 mm (5⁄16 in.) for spacing of supports up to 600 mm (24 in.) on centre when the face grain is installed at